Electrical Help-replaced halogens w/OEM Xenons and they dont work
#27
#28
Check with your dealer there is a Xenon Upgrade Kit available with everything that you would need.
#29
#30
you must plug a small cable in position 5 of the headlight adapter and connect it with the fat yellow/blue of position 6.Then from the FRM unplug these 2 fat yellow/blue wires,from position 6&38 of one adapter,connect them both with a thick cable and plug it to position 41 to the other adapter!That's it...You have Xenon...Be careful.the control unit of xenon must suit to your car...some control units are until 9/2009 and some others are after 09/2009.This is needed to cooperate FRM with control Unit!check your control unit to realoem.com
#31
you must plug a small cable in position 5 of the headlight adapter and connect it with the fat yellow/blue of position 6.Then from the FRM unplug these 2 fat yellow/blue wires,from position 6&38 of one adapter,connect them both with a thick cable and plug it to position 41 to the other adapter!That's it...You have Xenon...Be careful.the control unit of xenon must suit to your car...some control units are until 9/2009 and some others are after 09/2009.This is needed to cooperate FRM with control Unit!check your control unit to realoem.com
#32
Did you only install the xenon housings or did you also add the levelers and washers? Also, pictures of these adapters and connectors would be most helpful From what I understand, you are saying to jump pin 5 and 6 on the left and right headlight connector; then I get lost with the FRM. Where is that module, and what are the adapters you refer to?
#33
Only xenon.if you want you can add the washers but you need another Windshield cleaning container with an extra hole for the pump...The adapters of the wiring harness that are connected to the headlight...There is no pin in position 5 so you have to add one and normally you have to take to the FRM.but because this is very very difficult connect it with the fat one i told...and then use this fat and unplug it from The FRM and plug it to the position that the "5 position" cable should be.The FRM is left of the driver's legs...There are 3 adapters.one in on side, two in the other...I refer to the two...
Can you explain in more detail how you wired up the xenons?
I have a set of correctly matched headlights and control units, when I plug them in, nothing hapens
Now if I wanted just low beams, what would I have to do? You mention running a connector to pin 5 and running it to pin 6. Why not just move pin 6 over?
#35
Bearheros. I think I figured out the Pinout for the xenon headlights. Im trying to move pins around, but I cannot take apart the headlight harness connector!
How were you able to move the pins around on this connector? I do not see any way of releasing pins out of the pigtail that fits into the headlight??? My experience with BMW connectors is that there's always a way to take them apart and release pins or add pins.
I took the connector apart as far as I could, but I see no way to release the pins.. Any advice?
Ive been dying to get this retrofit done. I have the headlights, the bulbs and the ballasts for the countryman, but I dont think the retrofit wiring kit will work with the R60, since it is made for an R56.
Through my own trial and error I've figured out what the difference in wiring is between Xenon and Non Xenon. I figured I'd post them for others so we can discuss and figure this out once and for all.
I wrote down the pinout for Halogen Vs Xenon, sorry for my chicken scratches:
My question is this:
1. Based on my observations and what bear heros says, You could theoretically just move the ground on the Halogen from Pin 4 to Pin 2 and have low beams. Is there any wattage difference or any reason why the halogen wiring might fry or get damaged by doing this?
I noticed with the halogen harness plugged into the xenon housing, nothing happens. I accidentally grounded the ballast on the body and the xenons powered up! When this happened, the bulb out warning went turned off. When I ungrounded the housing, it came back...Presumably you wouldnt have to modify anything to turn off the bulb out warning.
2. You could also move Pin 12 on the Halogen connector to Pin 5 and have high beams without reprogramming the FRM.
The high beam on the halogen gets 12 volts to activate. I wonder if the bixenon solenoid works off of 12 volts or is it less? I wouldnt want to fry the solenoid by giving it too much voltage or current... It would be awesome of someone could measure the voltage to the bixenon solenoid on a xenon car....
That's what I have for now!
How were you able to move the pins around on this connector? I do not see any way of releasing pins out of the pigtail that fits into the headlight??? My experience with BMW connectors is that there's always a way to take them apart and release pins or add pins.
I took the connector apart as far as I could, but I see no way to release the pins.. Any advice?
Ive been dying to get this retrofit done. I have the headlights, the bulbs and the ballasts for the countryman, but I dont think the retrofit wiring kit will work with the R60, since it is made for an R56.
Through my own trial and error I've figured out what the difference in wiring is between Xenon and Non Xenon. I figured I'd post them for others so we can discuss and figure this out once and for all.
I wrote down the pinout for Halogen Vs Xenon, sorry for my chicken scratches:
My question is this:
1. Based on my observations and what bear heros says, You could theoretically just move the ground on the Halogen from Pin 4 to Pin 2 and have low beams. Is there any wattage difference or any reason why the halogen wiring might fry or get damaged by doing this?
I noticed with the halogen harness plugged into the xenon housing, nothing happens. I accidentally grounded the ballast on the body and the xenons powered up! When this happened, the bulb out warning went turned off. When I ungrounded the housing, it came back...Presumably you wouldnt have to modify anything to turn off the bulb out warning.
2. You could also move Pin 12 on the Halogen connector to Pin 5 and have high beams without reprogramming the FRM.
The high beam on the halogen gets 12 volts to activate. I wonder if the bixenon solenoid works off of 12 volts or is it less? I wouldnt want to fry the solenoid by giving it too much voltage or current... It would be awesome of someone could measure the voltage to the bixenon solenoid on a xenon car....
That's what I have for now!
#36
As you see in the pic1 you have to join 1-2,3-4 of the headlight connector .
3-4 are for the high beam.
You have to unplug the two yellow-blue cables of the FRM plugs, join them together(Pic3-Pic4) and plug it as one now(BMW give it as Yellow-Red) to position 41(Pic5) of the Plug 2(Pic2).
Also you have to add $522 to CAS and FRM and reset FRM.
If you don't code, xenon won't work.
If you don't join cables highbeam won't work.
After that you will have errors in FRM because of missing autoleveling sensors.
There is a way to deactivate these sensors and do these manual,as with halogen,but i'm still looking for that.Also there is a way to avoid joining cables and make the highbeams work only with coding.I'm also looking for that.
3-4 are for the high beam.
You have to unplug the two yellow-blue cables of the FRM plugs, join them together(Pic3-Pic4) and plug it as one now(BMW give it as Yellow-Red) to position 41(Pic5) of the Plug 2(Pic2).
Also you have to add $522 to CAS and FRM and reset FRM.
If you don't code, xenon won't work.
If you don't join cables highbeam won't work.
After that you will have errors in FRM because of missing autoleveling sensors.
There is a way to deactivate these sensors and do these manual,as with halogen,but i'm still looking for that.Also there is a way to avoid joining cables and make the highbeams work only with coding.I'm also looking for that.
#37
HEY BUDDY I HAVE A MINI COOPER S AND I NEED TO BUY XENON HEADLIGHT PART NUMBER ARE SAME AS THE ONE YOU HAVE
PART # 63-12-2-754-793
AND 63122754794
i a m interested in buying with bulb and control unit
#38
As you see in the pic1 you have to join 1-2,3-4 of the headlight connector .
3-4 are for the high beam.
You have to unplug the two yellow-blue cables of the FRM plugs, join them together(Pic3-Pic4) and plug it as one now(BMW give it as Yellow-Red) to position 41(Pic5) of the Plug 2(Pic2).
Also you have to add $522 to CAS and FRM and reset FRM.
If you don't code, xenon won't work.
If you don't join cables highbeam won't work.
After that you will have errors in FRM because of missing autoleveling sensors.
There is a way to deactivate these sensors and do these manual,as with halogen,but i'm still looking for that.Also there is a way to avoid joining cables and make the highbeams work only with coding.I'm also looking for that.
3-4 are for the high beam.
You have to unplug the two yellow-blue cables of the FRM plugs, join them together(Pic3-Pic4) and plug it as one now(BMW give it as Yellow-Red) to position 41(Pic5) of the Plug 2(Pic2).
Also you have to add $522 to CAS and FRM and reset FRM.
If you don't code, xenon won't work.
If you don't join cables highbeam won't work.
After that you will have errors in FRM because of missing autoleveling sensors.
There is a way to deactivate these sensors and do these manual,as with halogen,but i'm still looking for that.Also there is a way to avoid joining cables and make the highbeams work only with coding.I'm also looking for that.
Hey Bearheros,
So I got the xenons on my countryman, got the low beams to work, (though it throws errors), but when I undid my FRM and took a look, the connector looks the same but my wiring and wire colors are different..
Here's a pic of my 2nd connector on the FRM, do you think the wiring is the same? I think the FRM is the same between countryman and r56.
#40
#42
#44
Hey Bearheros. Thank you so much for all your help, I was able to retrofit the xenons and get the high beams working on my countryman.
For anyone else looking at this for reference in the future, the R60 Countryman has the same footrest module and wiring as the R56. So bearheros instructions will also work on the countryman
A couple of clarifications to his instructions.
I did things just a bit different from Bearheros. Instead of connecting the headlight pins together, I just ran new wires. BMW/MINI sells premade wires with the correct connector already crimped on, along with the waterproof grommet for the headlight harness. You will need 2 wires with the following part number. You can get this both at the BMW and Mini dealer. 61130007256
Basically what you need to do to get this to work easily is to open the connector up, release the pins and move them around. Be VERY careful as the headlight connector is super delicate.
On the halogens, the ground wire is on pin 4 of the headlight harness. For the Xenons you need to move this to pin 2.
You will now be able to power up your xenon headlights, but they wont stay on (will flicker) unless you code you car to think it has xenons, you do this by modifying the Vehicle order using NCS Expert and adding the string $522 to the CAS module. Then you have to write a blank file to the FRM module to reset it and pull the new configuration down.
You will will most likely have a bunch of errors on your cluster because the blinkers in the front wont be connected so you will need to do that next. This is where the premade wires from BMW come in. You will need to add a ground wire to the pin you just moved.
The easiest way to do this is to get the wire you bought from the dealer the 61130007256 connect it to pin 4 of the headlight harness. Then if you look right underneath the headlight, you will see an earth post built into the car, this is where ALL the local ground wires connect up to the car to ground out. Very convenient. Crimp a round contact to the end of the premade wire, undo the bolt on the earth post, and attach the wire there. Now you have working front blinkers! This may or may not eliminate the error messages, for me it did but I also coded out the warm and cold bulb monitoring from the FRM, so Im not sure which of the two actions eliminated the error messages.
Next and finally, to get the highbeams working, you need to follow bear hero's instructions above.
Just as bearhero's did, I used the existing wiring but moved things around. To get the high beams to work, you will need to supply +12v to the bixenon solenoid inside the headlight. You do this by moving pin the Yellow/Blue wire on pin 12 of the headlight harness (thin pin) to pin 5. Be VERY careful releasing the pins, they are super delicate, I used some thick gauged wire and poked it into the hole above the pin to release it. Make sure you undo the clip on top first, or else it wont move.
Next we move to the footrest module itself. It is located on the drivers side kick panel, carefully remove the kick panel itself and you will find the module. As bearheros said, You will need to move the same 2 yellow/blue wires from pins 6 (on the black connector) and pin 19 on the Grey module. You have to combine these two wires, and connect them to pin 41 on the grey connector.
The easiest way to do this is to buy another premade wire from BMW and plug it directly into pin 41. The part number for this is 61130006663, you will need one of those wires. They look like this:
My philosophy on retrofits and modifications is to never permanently alter the car, so you will always be able to put the car into a factory state.
The way I combined the wires was by getting one of these splices, and removing the metal part in the middle.
like so:
this provides a perfect way to combine the 1 wire coming out of pin 41 into 2 wires.
I solder the purchased wire from BMW to the connector:
When finished i covered the entire thing with electrical tape and put everything back in it's place.
Now the high beams work and you should be done!
If I missed anything or you have any questions, feel free to PM me!
Many thanks to bearheros for figuring this out, I love my new retrofitted xenons!
Last edited by Shoe Coupe; 04-07-2014 at 10:01 AM.
#45
#46
Hey Bearheros,
Have you noticed any issues with the +12v wire on your xenons on the headlight harness? This is the white wire with the blue stripe. On mine, I went back to look at it and the wire had turned slightly brown!!!
I was thinking it draws too much current for the wire gauge but I ran the xenons on for 30 mins, touched the wire and it was still cool to the touch. I wonder what has caused this? Im worried about frying something...
Have you noticed any issues with the +12v wire on your xenons on the headlight harness? This is the white wire with the blue stripe. On mine, I went back to look at it and the wire had turned slightly brown!!!
I was thinking it draws too much current for the wire gauge but I ran the xenons on for 30 mins, touched the wire and it was still cool to the touch. I wonder what has caused this? Im worried about frying something...